Bourride

1 recipe bourride base, recipe follows
Pinch saffron
1 cup julienne leeks
3 cups peeled, seeded, and chopped tomatoes
1 orange, zested and juiced
1 cup julienne fennel
2 tablespoons chopped garlic
2 tablespoons finely chopped freshly parsley leaves
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 pounds white fish, such as mullet, ocean perch, or pollack, cleaned and filleted
1 cup Aioli, recipe follows
8 egg yolks*
6 to 8 (1-inch) slices crusty French bread
1 recipe Rouille, recipe follows

Put the stock in a large, heavy pot on medium heat and bring to a gentle boil. Add the saffron, leeks, tomatoes, orange juice, orange zest, fennel, garlic, and parsley. Season with salt and pepper. Season the fish with salt and pepper. Add the fish to the pot. Cook for 12 minutes, or until the fish is flaky. Remove the fish and set aside. In a mixing bowl, combine 1/4 cup of the Aioli and the egg yolks, together. Whisk until smooth. Slowly whisk the egg mixture into the hot fish liquid. Continue to cook until the liquid starts to thicken, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat.

To serve, place the croutons in the center of each bowl. Ladle the sauce over the bread. Lay a couple pieces of fish on top of the crouton. Serve the remaining Aioli in a sauce boat to the side of the La Bourride.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

bourride base

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup chopped yellow onions
1/2 cup chopped celery
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3 cloves garlic
1 bay leaf
8 black peppercorns
2 sprigs thyme
1 pound fish bones
8 to 10 cups water
1 cup dry white wine

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions and celery. Season with salt and pepper. Saute for 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the bay leaf, peppercorns, and thyme. Add the fish bones, water and wine. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and strain.

aioli

4 cloves garlic
2 egg yolks
Pinch salt
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons good olive oil

Place the garlic in a large mortar and crush. Add the eggs and incorporate. Season with salt. Slowly stir in the oil, a little at a time, until all of the oil is incorporated and the mixture is like a thick mayonnaise..

Domaine du Tariquet • 2008 • Gascony, France • 271562

Grape: Ugni Blanc, Colombard

appearance - bright, clear

color : pale, slight green

aroma - fragrant

flavors (smell + taste)

sweetness - dry

acidity - crisp

oak -

fruit - granny smith apples, limes, violets

earth - grass, petroleum, slate

body - light

additional notes - very light and dry, similar to Alsatian Riesling, note the petroleum on the nose, serve cold.

• If you're doing research on the most widely planted wine grapes of France, don't waste your time looking up Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. The grape you're looking for is Ugni Blanc. This grape is known as Trebbiano in Italy and most of the wine made from it in France goes into the production of Cognac and Armagnac. The wine is light and acidic and blends well with other varieties added backbone and structure. It is a favorite in the Languedoc and Gascony regions of Southern France.

• Often they will serve this white wine with a rich fish stew called bourride. Very similar to another classic, bouillebaisse. But bourride is richer with the addition of a potent garlic mayonnaise. The influence of the Spanish and the Arabs can be tasted in this dish which includes the flavors of orange and saffron. The recipe for bourride is very flexible and can accommodate almost any fish or shellfish that is presently available.